Television & Photography Makeup Guideline

orangeshadow

Preparing the Foundation

As with any other type of makeup, it is necessary to prepare the skin before applying any products. For television and photography, skin must be hydrated and taken care of so the makeup looks its absolute best.

I recommend using a stick/cream foundation for television and photography and avoid water based or luminous foundations that can cause the lighting to deflect poorly off the skin creating some not so great outcomes for camera. It is a great idea to keep in mind what type of lighting will be used. Also, the thicker the product, the more coverage it will give.

In makeup for photography, use of liquid foundation can be used so that it looks natural and light.

Dust the whole face with loose powder to ward off shine.

Corrections to the face can be made with pencil or with powdered shadows, leaving these well blended but defined.

Color Application

The makeup artist must know how to apply makeup according to the type of program in which he or she is working. If the makeup is for journalism, the colors should be conservative and matte, making sure that they do not clash with the wardrobe. Any shading around the eyes must be smudged, making sure that the eye is both defined and clear.

However, if the shooting takes place at night, the makeup must be a bit more intense and the artist can apply bolder colors. Still, the foundation should always stay matte.

For photography makeup, the makeup is limitless, since we can make soft eyes for a natural look or pronounced shadows for a sophisticated image. For these assignments, the artist studies the photographer’s portfolio and style, the client’s wardrobe, and so on.

In both television and photography, false lashes are important because they thicken and extend the natural lashes and give the eye more of a “pop.”

The eyeliner should always be a shade or two darker than the eye color.

The brows in the case of television should look natural but intensified a bit for photography.

In the case of television, more blush is best! What can appear like a lot in real life looks very different on camera and can make a person look pale. However, this does not mean to make the person look completely unnatural. Take a couple of shots with the camera to see if blush needs to be intensified or more subtle. In any case, blush must emphasize the cheekbones.

The lips must be lined well, and it’s important they look symmetrical. In photos and television, anything asymmetries are more noticeable.

In all cases, the makeup must be appropriate to the visual medium, being aware of the studio lighting. Always confirm the type of makeup to be done with all concerned on the set, so as to be able to apply this to the makeup.

For more info on television and photography and lighting, see: http://lulumakeupart.com/2014/06/30/makeup-for-television-and-photography/

Check back next week for Special Effects for Film & Stage!

 

 

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Makeup for Television and Photography

smokey eye by little lulu makeup artistry in miami

Communication is extremely important in deciding the style of the the finish which your makeup must cater to.

In this post we will discuss:

  • The role of the makeup artist in the studio
  • Television scripts and the makeup artist
  • Staying Consistent
  • The role of the assistant makeup artist
  • Studio lighting and its effect on makeup
  • Television terms and vocabulary
  • Special products for television and photography

The Role of the Makeup Artist

The professionals who influence how the actors and actresses appear on camera include: the producer, director, script writer, makeup artist, wardrobe and hair stylist, and lighting crew. The main role of the makeup artist is to counteract the shine and reflective effects that bright lights produce when coming in contact with a person’s skin. Studio lights also tend to wash out the complexions of people being filmed and it’s up to the makeup artist to make sure actors don’t appear ghost-like on camera.

When a specific character or time period is being recreated, the makeup artist is called upon to recreate an authentic and convincing image  for the camera. Special-effects makeup, such as wounds and scars is another specialty of the makeup artist that works for television.

In television, the makeup artist has the advantage of seeing the result of their work immediately whether he or she is on the set or in front of monitors in the control room. Generally, televisions shows are taped, necessitating simple touch-ups between takes. The makeup artist must be attentive to the director’s order and never in a place that can interfere with other members of the crew. It is important to keep your equipment clean and your materials well organized. Always look professional and well-groomed.

Television Scripts and the Makeup Artist

The script for a television episode is what governs the entire production. All the audiovisual details are contained within the document. While in film, the makeup artist must become acquainted with only a single type of script. However, in television, there are many formats and styles to match the different genres of TV programs which the makeup artist must also become acquainted with. Some television programs are make with no script at all- news programs, where field journalists report live on location, is an example. Afterward, through newsroom editing, the team establishes a script.

Soap operas are unique in that there is often a master document from which the serial scripts are drawn. The master document contains details such as descriptions of the characters, professions, personalities and styles, history and so on.

In daily talk shows, each script changes daily. Other models of television scripts are:

Short news segments

The topic of a short taped news segment will be a single theme or event, whether a press conference or the naming of a new head of state. These segments are meant to be informative and objective.

Featured news segments 

On TV programs like 60 Minutes, there might be several 10-15 minute segments. The script for these segments will be more extensive and contain footage destined for voice-over. There is usually a clear, established structure, although last minute changes are common and require the makeup artist to adapt quickly.

Interview scripts

These documents describe the people involved (i.e. moderator, speaker, interviewees), the order in which they speak, the topics and so on.

Reality shows and game shows

The circumstances of reality shows are different and the crew members should always be prepared for the unusual. In reality shows such as Survivor, a team of script writers stay nearby and document the daily routines of the competitors. They then incorporate and further develop the spontaneous story lines when they write their scripts.

Staying Consistent 

For every recurring character in any type of television program, it’s critical that consistency be kept between what the actor wore and how he or she was made up from one episode or shot to the next. If special effects are used, there will need to be an account of where a particular wound was located, for example, and for how long according to the script, the wound shall appear. This attention to detail ensures a realistic consistency within the television program. A wound that miraculously disappears by the next episode of a soap opera, for example, will be noticed by astute viewers.

The Role of the Assistant Makeup Artist

The assistant will be responsible for assisting with the needs of either the main makeup artist, or artists or the actor (or journalist, etc.) being made up. Specific duties vary.

Studio Lighting and its Effect on Makeup

Lighting color

Many different colors of light are used on television sets to create an atmosphere and evoke certain emotions in the viewers.

Orange light will result in a warm, relaxed, intimate environment. Orange light smooths facial features.

Pink light is used to create an effect of flashback or dream sequence. Pink light attenuates lines, folds and creases.

Red light is used to deliver a sense of a variety of environments and settings, such as a cafe or theater. Under red light, makeup practically disappears because red light is stronger than any other color.

Blue light creates an atmosphere of fear and suspense. It is also used for a moonlight effect in night shoots. The effect that it produces in makeup is shadow. It gives clarity, clears up the skin, and improves under-eye circles. Natural variations in skin tone become more visible.

White light has a similar effect to blue light, but makes contrasts even more noticeable.

Film speed

The speed of the film is a measure of its sensitivity to light. The speed/sensitivity influences how makeup appears on film. Speed is denoted by ISOs, named for the International Organization of Standardization.

Films of low sensitivity (12-80 ISOs) are among the more challenging for the makeup artist to work with as they register all kind of details. Untreated pores and fine lines will be evident, putting the responsibility of a perfect finish on the artist. Low-sensitivity films also result in high contrast.

Films of moderate sensitivity (100-200 ISOs) are used more often and produce a lifelike, realistic image.

Films of high sensitivity (400-3200 ISOs) are easy for the makeup artist to work with. They reveal very little detail and disguise most imperfections These films are used for artistic expression and produce images with a grainy, vintage look. As for the makeup, you must amplify it.

Intensity and quality of light

The illumination can be more or less intense, hard or soft, cold or warm. These terms relate to the quantity, contrast, and hue of light.

Direction of illumination

Frontal lighting is becoming less used because it leaves the face totally flat. It has the advantage of smoothing out wrinkles. Makeup should enhance the curvatures of the face with technical shading.

Back lighting produces the opposite effect of frontal lighting. Light aimed from behind the person obscures the face and only shows the silhouette. As in the previous example, the ambient light serves to smooth, and according to the intensity of light, the face will remain in greater or smaller degrees of semi-darkness. the makeup will vary according to the type of back lighting:

  1. Absolute back lighting: the face is not seen.
  2. Back lighting smoothed by ambient or ambient light of low intesnity: the makeup must be in a satin or luminous finish.
  3. Back lighting smoothed by ambient or ambient light of high intesnity: this light increases the intensity that influences the face, clarifying the tones.

Top lighting is cast on the individual from above, as daylight would be. The illuminated zones correspond to the higher and prominent parts of the face which already receive more light. These facial features will project shadows on less illuminated zones. The makeup artist will highlight the face to correct the distortion that is caused, compensating and balancing the zones of light and shadow.

Under lighting is located at a point below the individual. The more illuminated zones will be those of the lower parts of the face, which will receive greater intensity. The shadows are projected upward, producing a spooky effect.

Side lighting illuminates only one side of the person. In makeup, you must keep in mind the intensity of the light for color selection and textures.

Television Terms and Vocabulary

Aerial or crane shot: The camera offers a perspective of the scene from a certain altitude. This is usually done by elevating the camera with an aircraft or large crane. This is not to be confused with the overhead shot, since aerial can be shot overhead or not.

Overhead shot: The shot in which the camera is placed, by means of a crane or other technical system, directly above the action.

Cut-away shot: These shots are intended to be filler for video or film. For example: if an interview is being taped, shots might be taken of objects on the table, the screen of the interviewee’s computer, etc., to be incorporated with the actual interview during editing.

Datum shot: The shots that offer the viewer a reference that permits one to orient oneself in relation to the action being shown.

Subject shot/ Point of view: A shot that allows us to see the action through the eyes of the character. The point of view or POV shot.

Special Products for Television and Photography

Foundation

Pancakes foundation works with a damp sponge and gives full coverage.

Pan-stick makeup covers with a creamy texture.

Liquid foundation contains oils unless labeled oil-free. Liquid foundations are ideal for heavier coverage or/or combination skin. the makeup artist should carry several shades from fair to warm.

Cream foundations provide full coverage and can function as concealers.

We can use makeup foundation to correct imperfections in skin that will be photographed:

  • To correct face shape, use darker foundations, being sure to blend well into the skin.
  • To correct red zones, use green or yellow-tinted concealers or cream foundations.
  • To correct dark spots or under eye darkness, use orange-tined concealer or cream foundations.
  • For sallow skin, use orange, yellow or translucent foundations.

Powders

Orange powders give luminosity and good tone.

Translucent powders clarify. They have no color, but can look ashy on warmer skin tones.

Yellow powders even red tones and brighten the skin’s complexion.

Now that we understand many things about photography and television, make sure to check back next week for a general guideline on how to create makeup for photography! Subscribe to my blog for e-mail updates.

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Pregnancy Makeup

bump-makeup

I typically get told by friends and family, “You’re glowing!” To which I hesitate to reply, “Thanks, it’s my Bobbi Brown bronzer!”

Okay, so this is more of a makeup tutorial for pregnant women. It’s fast, does not take a lot of work, and is mainly used on the days where you just don’t feel you look your best self. I actually do feel more confident and energized to go about my day when I feel and look pretty. Because, let’s face it, when you’re pregnant, your skin suddenly changes and can suddenly be extra dry or extra oily. We get blotches on our faces, dark spots, dark circles from not sleeping comfortably, wonder why our skin is turning a weird yellow/green tone, and most often, we wonder, “Where is our glow? I was promised a glow!”

Don’t dismay!  Your best friends are here to help you. Their names are Concealer and Bronzer. The trick is to instantly boost your look by using a soft eye cream, then topping it off with concealer. If this is not enough to cover the darkness, use a corrector first, then layer a concealer on top with a brush. Pat the area with your ring finger to blend, and use a small powder brush to set it so that it does not crease.

The next step is to use a foundation or type of coverage that will even out the skin tone. If you have dark spots, use a CC cream that has spf. If you have oily skin, use a BB Cream that has spf. Finally, if you have dry skin, use a tinted moisturizer with spf. These not only have sheer to medium coverage, but in most cases can take the place of moisturizer, foundation and spf. It’s all in one! Some of them even have built in primers!

Wait a second for the formula to dry and then add some bronzer. I like to add it on my neck, sides of the nose, under the cheekbones and on my forehead. Then, with a contouring brush, I add a bit more bronzer to the bottom of my cheekbones as if contouring to create depth. In the later stages of pregnancy, this is really important because we tend to get swollen and not feel like we even look ourselves.

You can stop there or take it two steps further by adding a peachy color to the cheekbones and a lipgloss or stain. Take is a step further by adding a soft eyeliner and mascara to make the eyes pop.

Here are some additional pregnancy tips:

  • Use skin care for sensitive skin.
  • Don’t exfoliate or use abrasive face washes more than once a week.
  • Clean your brushes DAILY (I mean it- even with a brush cleaner)
  • Make the time you need to feel your best, even if it’s 5 minutes. When you look your best, you feel your best and everyone around you benefits from it as well.
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Bridal Makeup How To

Bridal Makeup and Beauty

Bridal Makeup and Beauty

Bridal Season is here and for most women, their wedding day is the day they have dreamed of since childhood! Some have an idea of what they want to look like on their wedding day, while others need a little guidance and reassurance of the look they would like to achieve on their wedding day. A Makeup Artist is a Bride’s best friend who ensures that the darkness under her eyes from lack of sleep will soon be gone, listens to her concerns, deals with her jitters and reminds her that if she keeps sipping that champagne, she may soon be unable to walk down the aisle.

 

 

Makeup For Brides

The idea of Bridal Beauty is for the Bride to look like her most natural self while accentuating her very best features. Makeup should consist of soft, natural tones. It is important that the Bride feels comfortable with how she looks on her wedding day. There should always be at least one Consultation and Trial appointment followed by the Wedding Day Makeup appointment.

First Appointment

In the initial consultation, the Makeup Artist and Bride-t0-be will both need to make decisions about the makeup for the wedding day. It is important to plan ahead for the Wedding day makeup. Here is what is discussed:

  • Skin type, allergies, and sensitivities to cosmetics
  • Type of dress
  • Hairstyle
  • Color of bouquet
  • Time of ceremony
  • Details of the reception and lighting
  • Whether the wedding will be photographed, videotaped, or both
  • Whether the Makeup Artist will be doing the makeup of other members of the wedding party
  • Whether the bride-to-be will need to purchase an “Emergency touch up kit” or need the Makeup Artist to touch up throughout her reception.

The Makeup Artist should make some general recommendations to the bride-to-be such as:

  • In the summer, brides should use sunscreen to avoid sunburn.
  • A good diet in the months preceding the wedding is essential as proper nutrition will make the skin glow.
  • Increase water intake to at least 3 liters a day which will enormously benefit the appearance of the skin.
  • In the weeks prior to the ceremony, the bride-to-be should rest properly (haha, I know. Try anyway, even if it is laying down and attempting not to think of anything)
  • Wax the brows at least four or five days in advance so there is no redness or irritation on the wedding day.
  • Get a facial a few days to a week before the ceremony. Some salons and spas cater to the special skin care needs of brides. Take their recommendations seriously.
  • Fair-skinned brides who will be wearing the traditional white or ivory dress should consider getting a light tan through several tanning sessions, but not to go overboard. The idea is to look sun-kissed.

Some Makeup Artists offer complimentary consultations that involve the steps discussed above by phone or in person and the bride can decide whether she will want to schedule an appointment for a Trial Makeup appointment at another time. Some Makeup Artists do the complimentary consultation as well as the Trial Makeup appointment on the same day. Decide what is best for your time and schedule.

Trial Makeup

The trial makeup is where the Makeup Artist will prepare the necessary materials for the type of makeup based on the information gathered from the consultation. The Makeup Artist will then create one or more “looks” until the bride-to-be is satisfied with the outcome. The Makeup Artist should record the exact products used, preferably by using a Face Chart. Also, it is the time to check for any skin sensitivities and allergies to the makeup. If an allergic reaction occurs, do not panic (it can happen no matter how “hypoallergenic” a product claims to be). Simply, have the bride wash off the makeup immediately.

If you need to, reschedule the appointment for a later time and use a different product on her skin. Trust me, it would be much worse than if it happened on her Wedding Day! Trials are important!

Makeup Application:

  1. Clean and care for the specific face and skin type. It is important to work with cleansers and moisturizers that will not be too oily, unless the bride-to-be has dry skin. Apply a dime sized amount of serum to refine the skin and give it a healthy appearance.
  2. Apply a primer.
  3. Apply the necessary correctors and concealer.
  4. Apply a foundation to match the client’s skin tone. The objective is to emphasize the beauty of the skin, not to cover up the skin.
  5. Depending on the type of skin, you can then use a puff or brush for color application.
  6. Create a look on the eyes according to their eye shape, client’s style (modern or classic, etc.), age, and the hour of the ceremony. Follow the guidelines for eye shapes.
  7. Line the eyes softly with a powder liner or long lasting (preferably water resistant) gel liner.
  8. For the brows, use a shadow to fill them in so they look more natural than when using solely an eye pencil.
  9. Use water-resistant and smudge-proof mascara.
  10. Apply bronzer to warm the face and neck.
  11. Apply blush to the cheekbones in a neutral rouge.
  12. Use a neutral lip liner to line the lips and shade them in. Apply lipstick over it, then a touch of gloss.
  13. Use an illuminator to highlight the T-zone of the face.
  14. Set the makeup with a specific spray product or powder.
  15. Once the makeup is done, the colors will be filled in on a chart to be used as a reference on the day of the ceremony. The makeup artist and bride-to-be will evaluate the results and make a note of required changes.

Wedding Day 

  1. The Makeup Artist will have prepared the kit with the products and tools needed for the day.
  2. Arrive at the appointment on time to have at least an hour to perform the makeup.
  3. The steps of the makeup are the same ones carried out on the day of the test.
  4. Every bride is a star on her wedding day! Make her the center of attention!
  5. Remember that the bride will be photographed constantly and it is important to pay special attention to the foundation and finish of the skin.

So that she can perform her own touch-ups through-out the day, the bride will want to have certain products handy. For example, I offer Brides an “Emergency Touch Up Kit” that should be requested in advance which includes:

  • Blotting papers
  • Lipstick and gloss
  • Tissues

**We can offer them a better deal than going to a store with our professional discounts.

Types of Cosmetics to Use 

Foundation: Select a foundation that will match her skin tone exactly and is suitable for her skin type.

Powder: Use a loose powder that is similar to her skin tone.

Eye shadow: Select a color that naturally emphasizes the Bride’s iris, or, if you want to divert attention to another part of the face, use a quiet neutral tone. Another idea is to select a color that coordinates with her bouquet (roses and salmons which are natural). Use a beige pearly eyeshadow to illuminate the look.

Lining the eyes: Thicken the eyelashes with a pencil of a similar tone to the lash. Mark the contour of the eye with the pencil and smudge the line so that it looks soft and not harsh. Another idea is to wet an eyeliner brush and dip it into a powder to create a soft liner.

Mascara: Use mascara that thickens and lengthens the eyelashes. Also make sure it is smudge proof.

Rouge and corrector: Use a flesh-toned blush to correct the face shape, taking special care to blend in the product so it is not obvious. The makeup artist can select the color of the rouge following the rule of contrast (warm eyes and lips, cool cheekbones, vice-versa). Or, you can apply the rouge according to the skin tone of the bride. For example, if her skin is fair with pink undertones, use a blue-toned blush. On warmer skin tones, use a bronze or earth tone. Brush the blush light on the apples of the cheeks to give a healthy, pinched-cheek glow to the face.

Lips: Use a lip liner and dab on a natural or favorable tone. Always apply lipstick with a small synthetic brush and set the color. If the bride has dry lips, put a touch of hydrating brightener in the center of the lip. Put a touch of light in the center of the lip if you want to emphasize it and make it appear thicker using a clear or shimmer gloss.

Illuminator: Illuminator plays a very important role in wedding makeup. It will give that special touch to the makeup. The Makeup Artist can use a powdered, cream, or liquid illuminator. The ideal color to use is silver, but if the bride’s skin tone suggests it, you can use a bronze tone. Light up the T-zone and brow bones.

Thanks for reading my blog! Sign up for weekly makeup tutorials! If there is anything specific you’d like to learn, feel free to leave a comment or to contact me!

For bridal season, we are giving away a Makeup Palette! Follow this link to enter http://bit.ly/1wg6Ql6

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Basic Makeup Steps in Full Detail

Basic Makeup Application by Little Lulu

Basic Makeup Application by Little Lulu

Review: Steps in Makeup

  1. Prepare the Skin for makeup.
  2. Concealer
  3. Foundation
  4. Bronzer
  5. Set Makeup with Powder
  6. Cheeks
  7. Lips
  8. Eyebrows
  9. Eyes
  10. Highlight

 

 

Thorough Details of a Full-Face Basic Makeup Application

Preparing the Skin for Makeup

  1. The purpose of preparing the skin for makeup is so that the skin looks its absolute best, is protected, and so that the makeup looks flawless.
  2. HYGIENE is important when beginning any makeup application. Make sure you have hand sanitizer on you or that you wash your hands before touching your client’s skin. Brushes should be clean and makeup products should be disinfected before the appointment. I like to carry hand sanitizer on me during the makeup application and use it in front of my client so that she feels comfortable if my hands come in contact with her skin.
  3. CLEANSE the face with a makeup wipe. For sensitive/dry skin, use a cream-based makeup remover such as Bobbi Brown’s hydrating cream cleanser. Cleanse the face with a sponge whenever possible. Use a gentle wet cloth if necessary to remove cleanser thoroughly.
  4. HYDRATE. Even if your client has oily/combination skin, it is important for the skin to look hydrated and to glow. Think of it as a fresh drink of water for the face. Some of our clients tend to overly dry their faces with astringents,  and when the foundation comes on, it starts to flake or look cakey. Alternatively, make sure the cream is not too heavy for their face type or the makeup will slip right off and/or will not last as long. If the client’s skin is mature skin or very dry, consider using a hydrating serum underneath the moisturizer. Hydrate under the eyes, patting the eye cream with either your finger or a brush. **It is important to take the client’s hygienic considerations when touching their skin, so if they are uncomfortable with your hands touching their faces, use a brush to apply creams.**
  5. SPF. If your face cream does not have an SPF or your client will be outdoors for his/her event, it is important that the client wears a lightweight SPF for protection from the sun.
  6. PRIME. If your face cream does not already have a built-in primer, use a primer on the client’s skin. A primer has several benefits: Pores will appear smaller, it will protect the face from heavy makeup entering the pores, acts like a shield to protect against environmental factors such as pollutants, etc. **Some primers have SPF, such as Laura Mercier’s Primer. Primers can also be hydrating, illuminating, or mattifying. Consider the type of illusion you would like to create and the client’s skin prior to choosing a primer.**
  7. For On-The-Go or Every Day makeup, you can find 3-in-1 solutions to hydrate, protect, and prime. Some great options are: Bobbi Brown’s Protective Face Lotion, Laura Mercier Primer with SPF, Smashbox Hydrating Primer.
  8. For detailed information on Skincare, check out the Skincare Guide for Perfect Skin.

Concealer

  1. The reason to begin with concealer before foundation is because when we are tired, need an instant uplifting look to our face, it begins to show underneath the eyes. Additionally, first signs of aging occur underneath the eye. For this reason, when we apply foundation first, we overcompensate how much foundation is actually needed causing us to use too much product on the face.
  2. The best way to apply concealer is with a brush, so that if you need to layer product, you may do so with a brush (whereas, your fingertip will spread it).
  3. First consider and analyze the hues you have under the eyes and refer back to Correctors and Concealers. Will you need to correct the color first and then apply a concealer? Do you only need some concealer? If you need corrections, apply a light peach or pink correction with a brush. Make sure you get the inner corners of the eye where darkness hides!
  4. Layer on concealer on top of the correction with a brush. Blend and seal by tapping the corners and sides of concealer with your finger gently as to not rub off.
  5. For brightening under the eyes, you can use an eye brightener which acts much like a corrector. Think, YSL’s Touche Eclat. You can also apply it a bit under the eye and under foundation by creating an inverted triangle which gives a nice illusion later.
  6. For dark spots on the face, use a peach-toned corrector that does not brighten under the foundation.
  7. When re-touching through-out the day, dab on a bit of concealer to experience an instant refresh.

Foundation

  1. Foundation should match your face perfectly. That’s right, your FACE, and NOT your neck. Sometimes our neck is darker than our face. If you put a foundation a shade warmer than your actual skin tone, then it will most likely turn orange (this is called oxidation). Therefore, if you need your face to match your neck, use a bronzer, but more about that later. Foundation should match so well that it could be used on certain areas of the face to neutralize redness and not need to put it all over the face if not necessary.
  2. Consider whether your client has pink tones or is more olive-toned. This will let you know if you need a “warmer” tone. I personally do not believe in pink foundations because, referring back to color theory, how will you cancel the redness on the face? I tend to go for more yellow tones to neutralize the face of my clients, and then add warmth back gradually.
  3. Consider the skin type for foundation. Dry skin: Creamy foundations, oil-based foundations, hydrating foundations, water-based foundations. Normal/Combination: Creamy foundations, oil-free foundation. Oily skin: Oil-free foundations. Powder foundations.
  4. Consider the coverage needed. Foundations range from full coverage (such as creamy foundations) to sheer (water-based foundations). For example, if your client only has a bit of redness and normal skin, consider using a light-weight water-based foundation. Even a tinted moisturizer could do the trick!
  5. Apply foundation with a brush for precision as the oil of the hands tend to blend and spread foundation while a sponge absorbs the foundation and gives no coverage (don’t waste your makeup product- invest in a foundation brush!

Bronzer

  1. Bronzer can be used to warm the face and neck, to give a healthy glow, and to add darkening corrections/contour the face.
  2. When choosing a bronzer, consider if the client naturally tans cinnamon or golden by holding the two shades of bronzers to the chest of the person. If the person tans more cinnamon, use a cinnamon bronzer or else it will look orange and vice versa. Some people are more neutral, so you can find a neutral tone bronzer or use either or cinnamon/golden.
  3. If contouring, follow the Best Makeup Application for Face Shapes guide.
  4. For a natural bronze glow, start with the neck and apply some bronzer under the cheekbones, to the forehead, the chin and don’t forget the nose.
  5. Bronzer is not a good idea for those who have scars, marks or dark spots on the face. Use a warmer sheer powder all over the face instead.

Powder

  1. Powder sets all makeup. Apply it loosely with a brush for no to sheer coverage, or with a sponge for sheer to medium coverage.
  2. You can use a translucent/universal powder if you are fair/light, but stray from them if your skin is warmer/olive because it can appear ashy. You can use a sheer coverage powder, oil-control powder, or hydrating powder which locks moisture into the face but keeps shine out.
  3. Foundation powder is nice for oily/combination skin, but if you are to use this, use it before bronzer or other makeup. Do not overdo the powder with dry skin.
  4. Sheer yellow powders cancel redness. Peach ones cancel dark spots on the face.

Cheeks

  1. Wait, cheeks first and not the eyes? That’s right! Think of it this way, your client is running late or she gets an emergency phone call and she needs to jump out of your chair and go, she would still look decent. If you began with her eyes, it won’t look so great! Also, some clients do not like a lot of makeup so it is always easier to add on more or less as she feels comfortable rather than removing it.
  2. Consider the client’s skin situation, the eye makeup she would like, and if you applied bronzer.
  3. If the client’s skin is reddish already and she does not like that, use a blue-toned blush or a peach-tone blush to warm the face.
  4. A natural blush should only be applied to those customers that are not wearing bronzer or the face will appear dirty rather than natural.
  5. A POP of color right on the cheekbones should not over-do it if your client is wearing bronzer as it will simply accentuate the cheeks.
  6. Bright colors work if the client wants her face makeup to accentuate the cheeks and lips, but the eye makeup stays neutral.
  7. A soft blush is best if the eye makeup is dramatic. Unless you’re a drag queen, then do all the steps dramatically (especially contouring).

Lips

  1. A makeup artist MUST contain two important lip liner colors in their makeup kits: Natural and Red.
  2. A lip liner will help the lip color last longer.
  3. You cannot do a red lip without red lip liner.
  4. You can simply use a natural lip liner, spread it all over the lips, and use gloss over it for a color that will last all night.
  5. A natural lip color does not always have to be matched with a lip liner, but it looks oh so much more professional, precise, and cleaner when you do.
  6. When doing a natural or soft color lip, apply the color first and then apply a natural lip liner. It looks more natural.
  7. When doing a bright color such as red, bright raspberry or bright orange (or any other color that is bright and you’re feeling creative), use a lip liner first. The best tip is to go from the corner of the lip to the center, even on the upper lip to avoid that awkward “cupids bow” lip moment. Smudge the color into the center of the lip softly, then apply the bright lip color, stain, etc.
  8. I do not personally apply gloss over bright colors, as it already stands out enough.
  9. Again, consider the eye makeup. Why the dramatic eyes and red lips? WHY? Choose one, or you’ll be nicknamed Bozo the Clown and your friends will not let you live it down.

Eyebrows

  1. Outline the shape of the brow with a brow pencil the shade of your hair in soft wispy strokes. Use a stencil if needed.
  2. Use an angled brush to apply powder and fill the holes.
  3. If the eyebrows are brunette or full, so they do not look too pronounced, fill in the brows with a powder a shade softer than the pencil.
  4. Blend by combing the brows with a brow brush.
  5. Apply concealer right around the edges to soften the brow color with a concealer brush.
  6. Use a brow gel to hold brows in place.

Eyes

  1. If you will be using dark colors, layer powder underneath the eyes so you can just wisp out fallout later. Or use cream shadows so you do not have to worry about fallout.
  2. The easiest and most universal way to create a makeup look is to begin by applying a light color all over the lid from under your brow bone and down. This shade should be a shade or two lighter than your skin tone. Stay away from metallics, shimmers or bright white (unless you’re very fair, OR a drag queen). The only acceptable tone for a light glaze under the brow bone is beige.
  3. Choose a middle color. Press the colors on with an eyeshadow brush. Yes, press. DO NOT RUB or it won’t look like the color. So, press the shadow onto the eyelid and THEN rub back and forth to blend, bringing it up above the crease but leaving space for the lighter color under the brow bone. Do it several times to achieve the color intensity you want.
  4. Choose a darker color. PRESS the darker color onto the direct eyelid. You can use a blending brush between the two different colors on the line that separates them, so they can blend naturally.
  5. Line the eyes. For a more natural look, you can wet an eyeliner brush and dip it into a dark eye shadow. I like to start with a thin line inside the eye and then make it a bit thicker towards the ends.
  6. You can also use a gel liner! These are amazing, have great pigment and apply smoothly.
  7. If you want to smudge your eyeliner, use an eye pencil or kohl eyeliner, then with a brush, gently smudge the eyeliner.
  8. If you apply eyeliner under the eye, you MUST apply it above. But if you apply it above, you do not necessarily need to apply it under. Listen, or your client will look like her eyes are backwards.
  9. Finally, apply LOTS of mascara but make sure the brand you are using is clump-free. I love to exaggerate. Decide whether they need to be curled, if they need lengthening, etc. Apply the mascara accordingly. For a nice application, the outer lashes should extend outward, the middle lashes upward and the inside lashes inside.
  10. For creating eyes for your face shape, check out Best Makeup Application for Eyes.

Highlighting

  1. Apply highlighting to accentuate features in the face by using a light powder or shimmer/brightening powder.
  2. Highlighting is usually applied underneath the eyes, on the top of the cheeks, middle of forehead, center of nose and chin.
  3. Refresh your memory by checking the Best Makeup Application for Face Shapes guide.

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Contouring the Nose

Corrections can be applied to give the illusion of a differently shaped nose. Contouring and highlighting can therefore be used on the nose to sculpt it. There are many different types of noses and vary due to length, size, and shape. Here is a chart.

Contouring The Nose

Contouring The Nose

Types of Noses

  • Long
  • Short
  • Thick
  • Fine
  • Wide
  • Narrow
  • Twisted

Long Nose

  1. Use dark corrections on the tip and wings of the nose to make it straight.
  2. If the nose is thin, create an effect of wider width by applying a light color to the sides.
  3. A light-tone or neutral shade of lip color is recommended.

Short Nose

  1. Highlight the tip of the nose.
  2. Highlight the wings of the nose.

Thick Nose

  1. Shade the sides of the nose and the tip of the nose.
  2. Remove hair from the space between the eyebrows, making them separate further so the nose appears smaller.

Fine Nose

  1. Apply a shade or two lighter than the skin tone to the all over nose area.

Wide Nose

  1. Apply a darker color to the sides of the nose, contouring the sides of the nose.
  2. Highlight the center of the nose.

Narrow Nose

  1. Make up the laterals with a light-tone color to give the illusion of more width.

Twisted Nose

  1. Apply a dark color to the side of the deviation and a light color to the other side.
  2. Where hairstyle is concerned, a fringe that leans to the contrary direction of the deviation will help detract attention from that zone.

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Best Makeup Application for Eyes

Shading and highlighting is not limited to corrections on the face, but can be applied to the eyes as well. Here is a chart.

Eye Shapes and Makeup Application

Eye Shapes and Makeup Application

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Types of Eyes

  • Deep Set Eyes
  • Protruding Eyes
  • Close Set Eyes
  • Wide Set Eyes
  • Round Eyes
  • Down Turned Eyes
  • Small Eyes

Deep-Set Eyes

Suggested steps for correction of these types of eyes are:

  1. Use a light pencil on the inside rim of the eyes.
  2. Apply light, glazed shadow on the eyelid, slightly darkening the area above.
  3. Outline the outer extreme of the eye.

Protruding Eyes

Suggest steps for correction of these types of eyes are:

  1. Eyeliner must be dark and thick.
  2. Use a dark pencil on the inside of the eyes.
  3. Apply a dark, matte shade to the lid and light ones just below the brows.
  4. Use a lot of mascara on the eyelashes.
  5. Widen brows in proportion to the eye.

Close Set Eyes

Suggested steps for these types of eyes are:

  1. Sketch a line on the eyes with the dark shadow, starting halfway and extending until the outer corner.
  2. Use ivory on the inside rim of the eye and dark pencils on the outside.
  3. Use a lot of mascara on the upper and lower lashes.

Wide Set Eyes

Suggested steps for these types of eyes are:

  1. Use a dark shadow to draw a thicker line on the inside and thin out toward the outside.
  2. Use dark eye shadows on the inside, smudged outwards and light-tone shadows on the outside.
  3. Intensify the eyes with mascara focusing on the inner lashes closest the nose.

Round Eyes

Suggested steps for these types of eyes are:

  1. Make a line with dark shades on both the eye lid and along the lower lash line, making sure that the lines are slightly horizontal and long. Smudge the lines and then clarify with an eyeliner.
  2. Apply light-toned shadows under the eyebrows and dark ones from the tear ducts to the temple in a slanted angle.
  3. Intensify the eyes with mascara, focusing on the middle and outer lashes.

Down Turned Eyes

*It is important to avoid descending lines* Suggested steps for these types of eyes are:

  1. Make a thin line from the tear duct and slope the ending upwards creating a thicker line on the outer corners of the eyes. Do not go past the lid.
  2. Place light shadows on the inner corner of the eye and darker shadows on the outside.
  3. Apply a large quantity of mascara, extending the outer lashes.
  4. Give a point of luminosity on the eyebrow arch with a metallic or shimmer tone.

Small Eyes

Suggested steps for these types of eyes are:

  • Apply light shadows on the upper lid.
  • Create a slight dark shading over the eye fold.
  • Line the eye above and below.
  • Apply a lot of mascara on both the upper and lower lashes.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS

The use of glasses should not be an impediment for makeup, but this should be adapted to different scenarios.

Short-Sighted Vision

The eyes appear smaller than they really are, so it would be necessary to enlarge them with makeup.

Use light-toned colors under the brow bones and on the insides with dark tones from the middle of the eye and outward.

The eyeliner should be applied thin on the inner corner of the eye and become thicker toward the outside corners.

Long-Sighted Vision

In this case, the lens enlarges and deforms the eye.

Use dark shadows on the lid and smudged into the crease. Avoid shimmers and metallics on the eyes.

Line the eyes with a dark pencil and apply mascara softly.

 

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